Sold to Scotland by Norway in 1469, the Shetland Isles lie 200 miles north of mainland Scotland; Fair Isle is the southernmost of these islands. The rugged landscape is the habitat of the Shetland sheep, a hardy breed which produces good quality hardwearing fleece in all shades of grey and brown. This fleece provides the wool for the island’s knitting tradition.

Fair Isle knitting, as it became known, was popular all over Shetland by about 1910 and had first been produced in Fair Isle in the mid 19th century. Knitwear was produced at first on the island for trade and to supplement household incomes through bartering for essential goods.

Fair Isle knitting is produced in the round, traditionally on three needles or ‘wires’ which are pointed at both ends. The fabric is therefore seamless and knitted with only plain stitches. Circular needles or four needles can also be used.

The distinctive Fair Isle patterning involves horizontal bands of small repeating motifs and shapes in bright colours. Almost all patterns are symmetrical. Older garments were of the grey and brown shades of the native sheep and natural dyes. Two colours of yarn are used on each row with the yarn not in use being carried across the back of the fabric, known as stranded knitting. This creates a double layer of fabric which makes Fair Isle garments very warm and almost weatherproof. Colours are used in the patterns regularly across the row so that large loops are not created at the back of the work. Garments are produced using many combinations of patterned bands and colours.

Many theories abound as to the source of the Fair Isle knitting patterns, including that the patterning was taught to Shetlanders by shipwrecked Spanish sailors. A more likely explanation is that some of the many trade visitors to the island brought their native designs with them. Shetlanders have always travelled far in search of employment, often as merchant seaman who may have brought back textiles from areas such as the Baltic, where native textiles in some ways resemble Fair Isle patterns and colour.

Local families traditionally had their own selection of patterns which were memorised, passed down and adapted through the generations. In earlier designs small patterns of two to nine rows of knitting were used, but gradually larger Norwegian star motifs were incorporated into Fair Isle knitting designs, some of which can have 30 rows. Items produced include sweaters, hats, scarves and gloves.

Traditional hand knitted garments are still produced on the islands and larger Shetland knitwear companies produce garments with computerised knitting machinery. In 1982, the Shetland Knitwear Trades Association was set up to protect and promote genuine Shetland Knitwear.

Books and Articles
Allen, J, Fabulous Fairisle (Moffat: Lochar Publishing, 1991)
History of Fair Isle knitting with articles on contemporary designers. Contains charts and corresponding photographs of knitted swatches and patterns for Fair Isle garments.

McGregor, S, The Complete Book of Traditional Fair Isle Knitting (London: Batsford, 1981)
History of Fair Isle knitting with black & white photographs of traditional garments and large section of grid patterns.

Smith, M, and Twatt, M, A Shetland Pattern Book
(Lerwick: The Shetland Times Ltd, 1998)
Small booklet produced by Fair Isle knitters with a short history and 43 pages of grid patterns.

Websites
Shetland Knitwear Trades Association - www.zetnet.co.uk/skta/

Shetland Museum - www.shetland-museum.org.uk/collections/textiles/fair_isle_knitting.htm
Web page of Shetland Museum site with information on the history of Fair Isle knitting with images.